My name is Violette Noble and I am an artist who loves to search far and wide for bits and baubles whose origins may not be fully known but are always antique, rare, eclectic or just plain odd.
I use these fantastic finds in all my jewelry designs and each piece is created by me and is entirely unique.
Hopefully you've been enjoying learning a little about working with resin!
Today I'm going to talk a little about layering and adding trinkets!
It's so much fun to layer your piece or add charms and treasures inside your piece!
Here are some pieces I've done this with! I'll take them one by one and explain how I ended up with the finished product!
The above piece started with a vintage house number! I prepared the "collage" of the darling little girl as before (see post from June 8th and June 9th).On this particular piece I glued a tiny porcelain 3-d rose to her hair using E-6000 OR mod podge. You only have to "tack" it in because once the resin dries it won't be going anywhere!
I also painted a little "necklace" using gold acrylic paint and a toothpick making sure it was very dry before I poured the resin.
The little cuckoo clock charm was also snuggled down into the curve of the bottom of the O and if I remember correctly I clipped of the bottom part of the charm and filed it a bit so that it would fit better into the curve. It doesn't have to fit perfectly because the resin will fill in and hide some of the imperfections.
Here's the order in which I prepared this piece.
cut a cardstock backing
using mod podge added a little vintage text
cut out vintage photo and mod podged it on top of the text (cardstock is underneath)
painted her "necklace"
MOUNTED IT INTO THE VINTAGE HOUSE NUMBER
gave the entire thing 2-3 coats of mod podge
THEN added the porcelain rose and the clock charm
Next just mix and pour your resin. (see previous posts)
When you use 3-d objects you need to pay just a little more attention to how you fill the piece. If I can I like to completely encase the charms or trinkets OR at least make sure you coat the entire surface of the trinket with resin. As it settles and dries the image might stick up from the resin just a bit BUT there is still a coating of resin on the entire trinket.
You can get into trouble by not knowing where to allow your resin to go. If you don't cover the entire trinket with it, part of it will be shiny and the other part won't and might look different than you intended. This one was shallow enough AND the trinket was enclosed inside the bezel in a way that I could pour resin over the entire thing and just let the resin go where it wanted to. I hope that makes sense!
Next is an example of 3-d objects added BUT I was careful to only let the resin go up to the edges of the trinket AND NOT ON IT. Look at the photos below and we'll talk a bit about it afterwards!
For this piece I prepared the background as instructed in the above post I and II.
After I made sure the image was sealed with 2 coats of mod podge AND very dry I glued on the crown and the "royal" metal piece that I got from an antique typewriter!
When I poured the resin I was very careful to ONLY let the resin go up to the edges of the typewriter piece and the inside edge of the bezel. Notice that if I had let the resin encase the crown and or the typewriter piece it would have run over the sides. You just have to take each piece as it comes and let the design help you decide what to do! I use a toothpick to guide the resin where I want it to go AND be careful to only put very small amounts in as I go.
Layering is also so much fun and can give your piece even more of a 3-D look. Below is an example of layering:
For this ring I layered my trinkets and parts in between layers of resin!
I fitted the ring with my paper images as instructed in previous posts. Then carefully glued in some tiny watch parts and charms and let that dry. I mixed and poured my resin making sure to only fill the bezel about half full.
I let this dry completely and then glued more trinkets and then filled it up to the top encasing everything.
*******When you first begin it's probably best to let the entire piece dry first BEFORE you pour your 2nd coat of resin. HOWEVER after I got the hang of working with resin I ended up placing the 2nd layer of trinkets into the resin WHEN it was fairly hard BUT still sticky. It's tricky but if you're impatient like me you'll probably end up trying that!
The resin doesn't need to be COMPLETELY dry before you put in your 2nd coat but again...get the hang of it first and then experiment!
Well I think that's enough for today!
We'll talk more tomorrow about what to do when things go HORRIBLY WRONG!